Fancy dining can mean different things. For some, it’s al fresco dining with hot music and trays of tapas. For others, it’s a modern space with cool lighting and cutting-edge culinary creations.
We like all of those. But sometimes we like to go old school, too. Which is when we turn to Calvert’s.
Located in Surrey Center, the restaurant has been in operation since 1976, an intimate space that’s all dark wood, glowing lamplight and cozy seating areas dressed in dark plaid and leather.
We dressed up, too, my 6-year-old daughter taking the job very seriously. When we arrived at 5:30 p.m. on that Saturday night, the restaurant was already half full, with people talking quietly at their tables. We settled into ours, where my daughter immediately got busy with an activity book, and we perused the menu.
Calvert’s may be known for its steaks and its wines, but I personally adore its seafood bisque, its rich cream sauces, and its signature dessert, the chocolate roulade, a rolled chocolate cake filled with cream. Our server must have read my mind: “Would you like me to save some roulade for you?” she asked. “How did you know?!” I responded, and she simply smiled.
Seafood bisque was our first course, too. It’s been years since I had it, but the first taste of it stirred my memory, every bite rich and buttery and loaded with seafood, a touch salty, which made it even more addictive.
My husband, Sean, ordered the surf and turf special. “How would you like your steak?” our server asked. Sean hemmed and hawed between medium rare and medium—“How about medium-rare-plus?” she asked. I didn’t even know that was an option, but done.
I was hemming and hawing too: Steak would be the natural choice, but my daughter was voting for salmon, and we would share. Our server helped us decide since, when asked, she admitted the salmon was one of her favorites on the menu.
Sean’s surf and turf arrived, so large the plate nearly couldn’t hold his meal. The steak was a filet mignon and was perfectly cooked and incredibly tender, with a rich topping of seafood. I also tried a bite (or maybe more) of his lobster: First was the hit of butter, then the sweet salinity of the seafood, and just a touch of spice.
Our salmon arrived on top of a bed of shrimp scampi and noodles, with broccolini and shaved carrots on the side. It’s not what I normally would have ordered at Calvert’s, but I had to give props to our server again—it was terrific. The salmon was so moist and full of flavor with a lovely seasoned crust, and the noodles were light and salty and garlicky, as were the shrimp. The broccolini added a nice touch of freshness and raspy flavor.
It was all so good—but really, I was waiting for the roulade. When it arrived, gloriously decorated with swirls of chocolate and caramel sauce, we raised our forks and dug in. The outside of the cake was a thin shell that we lightly broke, with the moist cake inside and the light cream. It’s not a very sweet cake, but rich, and the tart sweetness of the strawberry played well with the flavors.
The sun was setting as we left, strolling along the storefronts to enjoy the coolness at dusk. One of my friends calls Calvert’s “a hidden gem.” On this night, I was glad we’d rediscovered it.
Make Your Reservation
Calvert’s
475 Highland Ave.
Open Wednesday to Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m.
Entrée cost: $22.95 to $49.95
