I thought I knew just about every Asian restaurant in Augusta. Until a friend posted a rave about Hunan Café.
“Hunan Café?” I thought. “How have I never heard of it before?”
A quick Google showed me what I was missing: appetizers like volcano shrimp, BBQ ribs and steamed dumplings, seafood soup, wonton soup, hot and sour soup and more and a huge variety of mouthwatering entrees like spicy garlic chicken, Malaysian sweet and sour pork, ma po tofu with its spicy bean sauce, Japanese udong noodles, rainbow shrimp in a ginger garlic wine sauce, orange beef, Chilean sea bass or flounder steamed Hong Kong-style, even the popular almond chicken.
My friend Tricia was all in — with the caveat that she couldn’t eat meat that day as it was a Friday during Lent. No matter — the menu has a long list of seafood options, as well as vegetarian options.
Located on Fury’s Ferry Road in the Publix shopping center, Hunan Café is a jewel box of a restaurant, with gold and deep orange walls hung with red draping, intricately carved wooden panels, scrolls with Chinese writing, and greenery. There are only about 10 tables, each dressed with silverware and real napkins, and on that night, nearly every one was full.
The hostess quietly led us to one with a smile and a couple of menus. But I already knew what I wanted — the coral scallop and shrimp. Tricia decided on the shrimp and lobster sauce, and we both thought we needed an appetizer, so added the salt and pepper calamari.
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We chatted and it seemed only moments later when the appetizer arrived, a generous portion of the seafood with a deep red chili dipping sauce. The calamari itself were a little chewy, warm and salty, with hits of pepper now and then—and the sauce added more spice and sweetness. I liked how light the dish was and how the coating was delicately crunchy. The little tentacles were especially delicious, cooked crisp and brown.
Our server next set down a couple of old-style blue and white restaurant plates (IYKYK), followed by our entrees and little silver covered bowls of white rice. We’d already decided to eat family style, so Tricia and I each scooped some rice on our plates, followed by several spoonfuls of each dish.
The coral scallops and shrimp were coated and lightly fried, dressed in a tamarind chili sauce—which our server explained was similar to sweet and sour—circled with a ring of lightly cooked broccoli. I tasted a scallop first—it was one of the most tender scallops I’ve ever tasted, nestled in a thin, crisp coating and dressed in the tangy and lightly spicy sauce. The sauce was incredible and perfect with rice.
The shrimp were similar, so plump and sweet. The menu explains that the restaurant uses extra jumbo shrimp that are sweet and meaty, and I had to agree. Which made me excited to try the shrimp and lobster sauce next. I’ve had the dish hundreds of times in my life, going back to my days working as a cashier at Yin Yin and the old Ming Wah on Walton Way. This, my friends, was the best rendition I’ve ever had: huge shrimp packed with flavor and a creamy sweet sauce with more depth of flavor from pork, onion, peas and carrots.
Tricia and I both kept going back for more of both dishes until every bit was gone.
My daughter and I went back a few weeks later. I’d ordered her the kids plate of chicken teriyaki on a stick, but she ended up eating most of the shrimp off my plate—I’d ordered the coral scallops and shrimp again—and adding the sauce to her rice.
I’ll always have my Asian restaurant favorites—New Ming Wah, Toki and Toki Jr., for example. Now I’m glad to add Hunan Café to that list.
Make Your Reservation
Hunan Café
403 Fury’s Ferry Rd., Suite 110
hunancafeasiancuisine.com
Entrée cost: $11.25 to $30.85
