I like to think the person who first came up with the word “brunch” was someone kind of like me. Someone who usually just grabs something quick during the week — but loves to sleep in then enjoy a leisurely morning meal come the weekend.
A quick Google search revealed this from the Wilhelm Family Vineyards website (and supported by others): “The word “brunch” was coined by British writer Guy Beringer in an 1895 article in Hunter’s Weekly. He argued that instead of the post-church early dinner that was typical in England at that time, there should be a hybrid of breakfast and lunch served around noon for ‘Saturday-night carousers’ to enjoy.”
As a mom to a young child, I can’t call myself a carouser these days, but I do love a good lie-in on the weekends. So, when my friend, Tricia, asked if we could get together on a Saturday, I grabbed the opportunity to suggest brunch. And where else but The Brunch House in downtown Augusta?
The restaurant’s been open for about three years, and I’m sad to say that this is first time I’ve ever been. Located in the former Whistlestop Café location, the restaurant’s interior has gotten a glow-up, in bright shades of red and chrome accented with black. It has a good-sized menu but a small footprint and tends to fill up quickly on the weekends. As we tucked ourselves into one of the last booths and opened our menus, I could see why.
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There are breakfast sandwiches (you can build your own!), biscuits smothered in country gravy, breakfast platters, a breakfast bowl, French toast stuffed with apple, strawberry or blueberry cream cheese and special dishes like shrimp and grits. There’s lunch too, with a build-your-own burger or build-your-own pasta, a patty melt, a chicken parmesan pasta and several salads. Kids platters and biscuits are also offered (half the size of the adult portions).
I loved how the restaurant offers so many options to customize. Even the platters and bowls give you a huge range of possible proteins — bacon, sausage, smoked ham, beef sausage, brown sugar pepper bacon, turkey sausage, salmon and, for some, chicken.
I was seriously considering the platters — maybe chicken and waffles or one of the platters with eggs or grits or pancakes — but Tricia always inspires me because she loves trying new things. She announced her choice: the Brunch House benedict, topped with the classic poached eggs, but on top of biscuits with salmon croquettes and a lemon cream.
I had skimmed over the shrimp and grits. It’s actually one of my very favorite meals, but heavy cream sauces can be tough on the digestion. As I glanced back over, I was thrilled to see that The Brunch House also offers a Low Country version with a savory sauce and no cream (there’s also a salmon and grits option!).
I knew it was a great choice the moment our server set my platter down, and I caught a waft of that delicious smell. And I loved their twist on the classic. Instead of grilled or pan fried, the jumbo shrimp —each about as large as half my palm — were deep-fried with a crispy, seasoned coating, smothered in a rich brown gravy. The yellow grits themselves were creamy and rich, too, full of butter.
As good as it all was — and it was very good — that sauce was the star. It was packed with flavor from a trinity of diced onion, celery and bell pepper, turned into a savory sauce thanks to a roux that I’m guessing may have had pork or bacon drippings as the base? It had a warm heat thanks to its Creole-inspired seasoning, and the vegetables, including a sprinkling of sweet red bell pepper, were slightly crunchy. I made sure to slather every forkful with some of that sauce.
Even better, Tricia and I decided to share our meals, so I got to try some of her lovely, salty, fluffy biscuit (my grits came with one too!), but topped with the tender salmon and the refreshingly tangy lemon sauce. There was a soft egg on top, lending its golden yolk to the sauce. The croquette itself was made of fresh salmon, I’m sure, not canned, which made it even more delicate and delicious, and the sauce was seasoned with plenty of green herbs, which added to its freshness.
Our server told us a secret: We’d actually ordered two of the most popular meals on The Brunch House’s menu. Note: The menu does change, and the restaurant also offers seasonal specials (on that day, the menu featured several fancy pancakes and French toast — think flavors like bananas foster or red velvet — plus hot honey chicken biscuit, fish ‘n’ grits and a Brunch House burger). But I couldn’t imagine anything better, as we sat curled up in our comfortable booth, enjoying a warm comforting meal on a cold Saturday morning. Brunch has never been more satisfying.
Make Your Reservation
The Brunch House
573 Greene St.
Entrée cost: $5 to $18