There aren’t many old-school Chinese restaurants around anymore. You know the ones, with the ornate dragons on the walls, those cool lights with the tassels, and huge servings of food on decorated platters or those metal footed serving dishes.
But there is still one: New Ming Wah on Wrightsboro Road near the mall.
New Ming Wah was the sister restaurant to the original Ming Wah on Walton Way, which closed several years ago and was replaced by Los Cabos, a Mexican eatery. (Fun fact: The Augusta Fish Market across the street features some of the same Chinese combination platters!)
New Ming Wah underwent a renovation during COVID-19. Now, when you walk in, there are still dragons and tassels, but there’s also a gorgeous gleaming bar, which serves up cocktails and other libations—a great hangout spot.
The menu also hasn’t changed much from the days when I worked at the original Ming Wah and the two restaurants had essentially the same menu (we often had people mistakenly come to our location to pick up a to-go order, and vice versa).
What you have to know about old-school Chinese restaurants is that the menus are enormous. There are appetizers—here, there are three types of eggrolls, eight wing flavors, shrimp toast, crab rangoon and more, including a tidbit plate. Soups range from the classic egg drop, wonton and hot and sour soups to a dumpling or seafood soup.
Then there’s varieties of fried rice, chop suey, Cantonese chow mein, lo mein, egg foo young, sweet and sour dishes, tofu/vegetable options, seafood entrees, pork dishes, chicken offerings, beef meals, special dinners, combination platters, family dinners for two to six, and kids meals.
What’s new or unexpected is that the combination platters here give you the option to substitute (for a price) the complimentary pork fried or white rice with another flavor of rice or lo mein noodles; you also choose an additional side, more rice, chicken chow mein, a variety of egg roll or chicken wings. All a la carte dinners other than the noodles are served with white rice.
There are also special items you don’t often see: fried rice or lo mein with “big” shrimp, eight tofu options and many other dishes without meat; bubble or boba tea, smoothies and iced milk teas; and some amazing-sounding cocktails (Shanghai mule, anyone?).
One question people always seem to ask is what they should order at a Chinese restaurant. I really can only tell you what my family likes, but one thing everyone should know is that most Chinese food in restaurants is Americanized. One dish that isn’t is the hot and sour soup. My mom made a terrific one, and New Ming Wah’s comes very close to her recipe. It’s a generous bowl and is warm, spicy and sour, but not too sour, loaded with bamboo shoots, tofu, wood ear fungus, lily flower and mushrooms.
Then, I usually flip to the other end of the spectrum. Shrimp and lobster sauce is definitely Americanized, but my family usually makes it more authentic by asking New Ming Wah’s kitchen to add some fermented and salted black soybeans, or dow see. It gives the dish a salty and slightly earthy umami flavor that lifts it.
Ask for the gravy on the side so the crisp crust on the chicken doesn’t get soggy, and make sure to eat every bite with a few chopped almonds; those almonds are the secret ingredient. I usually order the combo platter with the white rice and chicken chow mein; the white rice is a great holder for the gravy and the chow mein is my healthy and tasty veg choice, with its cabbage and bamboo shoots in a clear, light gravy. At New Ming Wah, I sometimes pay extra for vegetable fried rice, which is basically an eggy, onion rice; I love how fresh it is and how the fresh onion really lightens the dish.
I somewhat guiltily have to admit that the other dish I love is almond chicken. Yes, that sliced fried breast of chicken doused in thick brown gravy, topped with almonds. It was my go-to back in my restaurant days, and when it’s done right, it’s great.
Here’s another question I always get from people: What’s the best Chinese restaurant in Augusta? I have to say that New Ming Wah, with its classic feel and flavors, is always on that list.
Make Your Reservation
New Ming Wah – 3415 Wrightsboro Rd. – www.newmingwah.com
Entrée cost: $11 to $30
